Site survey findings that influence the design include things like: available space topography intended purpose and perceived water use based on the size of the dwelling/building the system will service. location of the well and/or neighboring wells. Soil test findings that influence the design include things like: soil type and layering (sand, clay, rock, and where it is located relative to depth) ability of the soil to drain and filter wastewater.
Backhoe Laser transit and grade pole 4" Sch. 40 PVC pipe(and fittings if needed) 4" ASTM D2729 perforated pipe 4"ASTM D3034 pipe and fittings 4" Sch. 40 vent caps and test caps PVC primer and glue Saw (either hand saw or cordless reciprocating saw) Hammer drill and bits(to go through wall if necessary) Hydraulic cement (to seal around pipe if going through wall) Shovel Inch-and-a-half washed stone (quantity depends on system size) Tape measures (regular and also at least a 100’ tape) Septic fabric (cut roll to 3’ long or so) Septic tank and risers (concrete, or plastic if allowed) Con-Seal (for concrete) or silicone caulk (for plastic) to seal risers Septic filter (ex. Zoeller 170 or similar) if required. distribution box (either concrete, or plastic, if running more than two laterals. )
Pipe 4" Sch. 40 going a foot through the wall or under the footing, and to a minimum of five feet outside the building toward the tank. Set it level where it’s going through the wall or under the footing, and from there run with about an 1/8" per foot of pitch (slope) toward the septic tank. Go further or all the way into the tank if required. If not, switch to 4" 3034 with the appropriate adapter and pipe toward the tank with 3034. Be sure to put a test cap on the end going into the building. If going through the wall, seal around the hole with hydraulic cement, inside and out. Don’t run too much pitch going out to the tank. If there’s too much, the water runs away faster than the solids, and the solids may get left in the pipe. Also, there may not be enough pitch to get to the drain field, depending on the depth your drain field is, and how close it will be to the outlet of the tank.
Lay out and excavate your leech field as it has been determined by the test done in the permit process. When laying out and excavating, remember to maintain a positive flow between the tank and the drain field.
Set up the pump chamber as you would the septic tank. The pump chamber contains the effluent pump and floats to pump out to the drain field at measured or timed intervals. This is a sealed system. The electrical installation will usually require a licensed electrician to satisfy state regulations. In areas with high ground water, be aware that the pump chamber or additional ATUs may be mostly empty much of the time, and these tanks may have to be protected against flotation by the use of extra weight or other protective structures.
